Braddock’s American Brasserie and Streetside Bar

Determined to use an about-to-expire Groupon, I braved last night’s blizzard for dinner at Braddock’s — deep breath, long name — American Brasserie and Streetside Bar. Snuggled in the Renaissance Hotel lobby (plush, loungy, lots of pillows and nooks and LCD fireplaces), Braddock’s serves French-inspired edibles and just fine whiskey cocktails. The Sazerac was a bit cloying (too much simple syrup, yeah?), and I prefer mine neat rather than over ice (never before been served one over ice, to be honest, and I’d be happy to never again repeat that blasphemy), but I genuinely appreciate its inclusion on the cocktail list. Most places — outside of the Embury, that is — have no idea that this delicious little drink even exists.

My gnocchi with artichokes and ‘shrooms and fresh spinach and tomatoes in a parmesan cream sauce was tasty enough. The sear from the pan-fry was a pleasant surprise, though I’m sure the lobster — which comes standard unless veggie-fied — would have elevated the hearty, fitting-for-a-snowy-night dish to something far superior.

The carnivore at the table assured me his steak, accompanied by seasoned frites and garlic aioli, was so tender you could cut it with a fork. Which I’m told is a good thing if you like to eat animals. I prefer playing fetch with them.